THE GOSSIPING GOURMET: Sleek urbanity found in food and furnishings

Everybody seems to be curious about the new incarnation of the old Eiler’s Inn. After a serious face lift that transformed a funky B&B; into a hip boutique hotel called SEVEN4ONE, passersby have been peeking into tinted windows to get a glimpse of what’s up.

Co-owner Brent Eneix says he’s more than happy to invite people in for a mini-tour of his new venture. We took the tour a few weeks ago and were delighted with the sleek, clean lines and urbane ambience of this 12-room, eco-friendly establishment. We were equally impressed by the fact that most of the décor and furnishings and all of the artwork come from Laguna.

The front room is now a bar area done in shades of gray with comfortable couches, armchairs, small tables, a fireplace “” and a menu. Yes, a sophisticated, little boutique menu. This is not a place to take a group of people for dinner but a perfect spot for a romantic light supper, or a martini and a bite to eat. They also have a charming outdoor courtyard area with couches and a fireplace where you can also wine and dine. Upstairs, there is a patio with an ocean view and four small tables that is perfect for a sundowner.

The kitchen is designed for hotel guests, but locals are welcome. This would also be a fabulous place to rent out entirely for an event.

On a slightly chilly evening we sat next to the fireplace on a comfy sofa, leaned back and let ourselves be pampered. According to Brent, service is their No. 1 priority. They even have a “sand valet,” a person who brings to the beach umbrellas, chairs, sun- screen, beverages, cold towels and almost anything a guest might desire.

Chef Gayle Sanford is a good ole Southern boy, both handsome and charming, who has apprenticed with the prestigious Patina Group. Currently he is experimenting with the SEVEN4ONE menu, and the dishes change frequently. He says that his culinary style reflects French, Italian and Asian influences.

The menu on the night we were there began with two dishes for sharing: a charcuterie platter with cured meats, cheeses, mint-roasted olives and mustard aioli; or a Mediterranean Taste with white bean hummus, roasted peppers, eggplant “caviar” and toasted pita bread.

White bean hummus is a little mellower than the traditional garbanzo bean kind. It tasted freshly made and was nicely balanced with a touch of garlic and a bit of heat. Combined with roasted peppers and the perfectly toasted pita, they were tasty little bites. The eggplant caviar was also delicious, subtle and delicate with chopped cooked eggplant, tomatoes, onions and garlic. The portion would easily have served four.

Two salads are available: a classic caprese with buffalo mozzarella, vine-ripened tomatoes, basil and port balsamic reduction, or a warm toasted chevre crostini resting on a bibb lettuce salad with creamy tarragon dressing.

A pair of panini are offered. Grilled free-range chicken is adorned with caramelized onions, shiitake mushrooms, smoked gouda and then slathered with sundried tomato and basil aioli. Vegetarians will be happy to find a panini consisting of Bibb lettuce, avocado, sprouts, cucumbers and his creamy tarragon dressing served on grilled ciabatta type bread. This is a sandwich lifted from the ordinary by the very fresh ingredients and the delicious tarragon sauce.

House-braised short rib sliders are one of three light entrées. The sliders are zipped up with caper horse-radish cream and pickled onions, then served with grilled fingerling potato skewers and tomato rosemary puree.

The yellowtail and ahi tuna stack was a sight to behold. It was a lovely presentation of layered tangerine, avocado, shaved cucumber, yellowtail and ahi. Crowning this pretty pile were crispy wontons. Decorative swipes of ponzu sauce and ginger sauce completed the picture. Unfortunately, we didn’t notice, until too late, the hidden-in-plain-sight dab of wasabi, which found its way into one alarming bite. There was a nice array of flavors, but they lacked punch (except for that wasabi). The fish itself was too bland and we wished the side sauces were more than decorative.

We very much enjoyed the wild mushroom risotto with chanterelles, hen-of-the- woods and shiitakes. It was not overly rich or too cheesy, but rather had lovely hints of Parmesan and truffle oil and the mushrooms were perfectly toothsome. The last risotto we had in a restaurant recently was drowning in butter, cream and cheese and the rice was mush. Here, the rice was cooked to the exact right point “” the equivalent of al dente, with each grain distinct. On another evening we had a very good scallop risotto with fresh English peas. Chef Gayle definitely has a way with this Italian classic dish.

They have just added locally made gelato to the dessert selection and the chef is experimenting with it. The night we were there, he added mint and tarragon to the vanilla and served it with a Turkish apricot tart and coconut sorbet. The puff pastry rounds were apricot-filled and surrounding them on the plate was a delicious thick apricot sauce. The marriage of apricot and the herbed ice cream was intriguing and the coconut sorbet was sinfully creamy and had a bit of coconut texture for contrast.

This little gem with its big city vibe is certainly worth checking out. They also serve a gourmet breakfast on the weekends and on Friday nights there is a tapas bar.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: SEVEN4ONE (949) 494-6200 seven4one.com

WHERE: 741 S. Coast Hwy.

WHEN: 4 to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday and 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

PRICES:

Food: $12 to $17

Desserts: $10 WINE:

Bottles: $36 to $75

By the glass: $12 to $25

Corkage Fee: $25

ELLE HARROW and TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at [email protected].