Jonathan Gold reviews Cosa Buona
Sausage pizza with mustard greens at Cosa Buona in Echo Park.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)A calzone, billed as an “homage to Franco,” at chef Zach Pollack’s new neighborhood pizzeria.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)Spicy potatoes diavola.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)Pepperoni pizza fresh out of the oven shows the leopard spots of the Neapolitan style.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)Chef Zach Pollack’s smokey mozzarella sticks are probably better than any mozzarella sticks you’ve ever had.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)The chopped salad at Cosa Buona is so much better than its name suggests.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)A just-cooked calzone.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)Yes, Cosa Buona is a chefly restaurant. Yes, it’s also a neighborhood pizzeria.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)