Counter Intelligence: Spago

The patio dining area has glowing fireplace at both ends.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Wolfgang Puck’s new chef, Tetsu Yahagi, prepares an Asian-influenced dish in the kitchen.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

One of the vegetable dishes is braised artichokes “Barigoule” with trumpet mushrooms and baby carrots.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

One of the desserts is a decadent variety of filled chocolate spheres.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

A Snake River Farm Kobe short rib is enhanced with horseradish cream and pickled mustard seeds.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Cold veal tartare stuffed with smoked mascarpone cheese is made to look like marrow bones.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

A bowl made to look like a tidal pool offers up a single sauteed oyster.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

A chirashi assortment of sashimi and rice is served in a wooden box.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The main dining area includes impressive art and a decent selection of music.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Barbecued skate wing is served with spicy Indonesian sambal and calamansi citrus.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

A wine wall extends across one side of the main dining room.   (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Artwork is reflected on a table.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)