Spring, and the Cooking Is Easy

It’s no secret that season to season--even week to week--the farmers market brings inspiration. Right now, just before summer comes marching in with its profusion of fruits and vegetables, the stalls are fairly bursting with potential.

There are fresh English peas (maybe as an appetizer?). Tender young greens (perhaps for a vegetarian main course?). And those cherries (here today, gone tomorrow) for dessert.

Suddenly, there it is: a burst-of-spring menu.

Not only that, making the whole meal isn’t going to take any time at all. It’s the produce that counts.

The young, fresh ginger root that’s everywhere now, and green onions, just reaching their crisp and clean best, make a wonderful spicy ginger sauce. Tofu is the perfect foundation, quickly pan-fried and served with the sauce, which also highlights another gift of spring--baby bok choy that’s so crisp it’s almost perky. Lightly steamed then drizzled with a bit of the ginger sauce, the bok choy tastes simple and fresh, the way spring vegetables should.

As the bok choy steams, it’s easy to put together an appetizer that mixes the sweetness of newly shelled peas with the heat of wasabi. Lightly steamed, the peas are pureed with wasabi paste for a dip or spread. Served with goat cheese and sesame crackers, the first course comes together in minutes.

Finish the meal with fresh cherries--but be sure to get to the market early. Local cherries, such as Brooks and Tulare, are there now, with Bings expected at any time. So sweet and juicy, they’re only around for a few weeks, and so popular that they often sell out in the market’s first hours. (Later in the season, cherries will arrive from the Northwest.) Serve them with their long stems on, in a stylish bowl or stemmed glass, splashed with a little sweet plum wine. Swirled through the wine, plucked right from their stem, they are one of the deep pleasures of the season.

In no time at all, spring has come to the table, leaving time to think about ... summer. Hidden among today’s leaves and stalks at a farmers market are glimpses of summer--early stone fruit, the first blush of tomatoes--and more inspiration.

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MENU

Sweet Pea and Wasabi Dip

Tofu With Shiitake Mushrooms and Baby Bok Choy

Fresh Cherries With Plum Wine

STAPLES

Rice vinegar

Sesame oil

Soy sauce

Sugar

SHOPPING LIST

1 pound cherries

8 baby bok choy

Fresh ginger root

Green onions

Shelled English peas

1 pound shiitake mushrooms

2 cartons tofu

Wasabi paste

Plum desert wine

GAME PLAN

30 minutes before: Cook peas. Clean bok choy.

25 minutes before: Make dip. Make ginger glaze.

20 minutes before: Steam bok choy. Slice mushrooms and tofu.

15 minutes before: Cook tofu and mushrooms.

5 minutes before: Assemble tofu platter and dip.

Just before serving: Pour wine over cherries.

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Tofu With Shiitake Mushrooms and Baby Bok Choy

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes * Vegetarian

*4 baby bok choy, sliced in half lengthwise

6 tablespoons rice vinegar

1/4 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons grated ginger root

4 green onions, sliced thin

6 tablespoons sesame oil, divided

1 (12.3-ounce) carton extra-firm silken tofu, sliced vertically into 1/2-inch thick slabs

1/2 pound small shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, cut into 3 to 4 slices each

Clean the bok choy and remove any outer tough leaves. Steam until tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, ginger, green onions and 2 tablespoons of sesame oil in a small bowl and set aside.

Heat a large, heavy, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of sesame oil. Cook the tofu on both sides until golden crispy edges form, about 3 minutes a side. Be careful not to break the tofu and do not crowd the pan. Use a small spatula to turn the slices. If they start to stick in the pan, add a little more oil.

Heat a 12-inch wok or skillet over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of sesame oil. Cook the mushrooms until tender and lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes.

Place the tofu slices down the middle of a large rectangular platter. Arrange the bok choy along one side of the platter and place the mushrooms on the other. Pour some of the sauce over everything; pass the rest at the table.

4 servings. Each serving: 326 calories; 1,839 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 1.72 grams fiber.

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Sweet Pea and Wasabi Dip

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes * Vegetarian

Serve this with sesame crackers and goat cheese. Wasabi paste can be found in the Asian aisle of well-stocked supermarkets.

2 cups shelled English peas

1 1/2 teaspoons wasabi paste

1/2 teaspoon salt

Rinse the peas and spread them evenly in a 9-inch glass pie plate. Add 2 tablespoons of water, cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high, 4 minutes.

Combine the peas, 2 tablespoons of water, the wasabi paste and salt in a blender. Puree until smooth yet slightly chunky.

4 servings. Each serving: 60 calories; 297 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 0 saturated fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 3.93 grams fiber.

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Cherries With Plum Wine

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 5 minutes

1 pound cherries with stems

1 cup plum dessert wine

Rinse the cherries under cold water and drain. Divide the cherries among small dessert glasses. Pour the plum wine over the cherries and serve.

4 servings. Each serving: 88 calories; 7 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 0 saturated fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 1.80 grams fiber.