Big and Tangy in Irvine

The largest farmers market in Orange County, in Irvine, bustles with shoppers who enjoy a wide selection.

Last Saturday, Barry Koral of Vista offered fabulously sugary, melting Filipino mangoes, a revelation of just how good local mangoes can be; small, light-green Suebelle sapotes, one of the sweetest varieties of a sadly underrated fruit; tangy, pale-yellow Mexican limes; and blander, bright-yellow Persian sweet limes.

Jerry Windham of Exeter sold two pink-fleshed citrus, giant Chandler pummelos and fruity Cara Cara navel oranges, along with regular navels. From Valley Center, Larry Welburn brought Fremont tangerines (a cross between a Clementine and a Ponkan, an ancient Chinese mandarin). He also had sweet, crisp red and green peppers, a gratifying result of mild winter weather.

Cha Her and Pas Lee of Fresno displayed many Asian greens, including tender young pea greens; spiky bunches of mizuna; Hmong and Chinese yu choy (the Hmong lighter in color, though they’re similar in taste); and two kinds often confused, gai lan and Chinese broccoli--the broccoli distinguishable by an agreeable slight bitterness.

Leslie Farms had locally grown taka-na, a pungent Japanese mustard green for pickling, steaming and use in salads. Takaaki Shimomura sold “Japanese potatoes” (mountain yams) from Anaheim, hairy brown-striped tubers to be peeled, sliced and eaten in miso soup or soba. He also had the market’s best strawberries: large, lusciously sweet Chandlers from Buena Park.

Irvine farmers market, Irvine Market Place, Campus Drive at Bridge Road, Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.