This extremely food-friendly wine, from one of...

This extremely food-friendly wine, from one of Sancerre’s best producers, shows why 1995 is considered an extraordinarily good vintage in the Loire Valley, especially for whites. It’s marvelously concentrated, ripe yet crisp, with Sauvignon Blanc’s enticing scent of new-mown grass. It shows best when chilled slightly more than most whites and is terrific with shellfish or fish cooked with ginger and exotic spices. It’s also a great match for soft-shelled crabs, which are just coming into season.